How to adjust a bow tie that pinches or droops: slider and neck size
How to adjust a bow tie that pinches or droops below the collar: neck size, slider and notches, step by step, before and after tying it.
How to adjust a bow tie you tie yourself? It takes a few minutes, provided you follow a precise order. This step-by-step guide is for anyone whose bow tie pinches, droops or shows its slider below the collar of the tuxedo. You will start from the right size, then adjust the length and check the result against your collar.
The tying itself is not covered here, since it has its own step-by-step tutorial, with video. The few minutes are our own estimate, once that move is mastered, since no source puts a figure on the exercise. It is best to try it now, as galas and year-end parties approach.
What you need to adjust a bow tie
Three items are enough, plus a fourth if you do not have a reference shirt at hand.
- The self-tie bow tie, with its adjustment system: slider or notches. The mechanism varies from one maker to another, but there is always one.
- The evening shirt you will wear on the day, with a turndown collar or a wing collar.
- A mirror large enough to see the collar, the shoulders and the jacket.
- A tape measure, only if you have no reference shirt.
If you are still looking for the piece, see for example the black L’Intemporel bow tie in 100% satin silk, handmade in Paris. The other shapes are in our selection of silk bow ties.
Before tying: size, collar and maximum length
These three checks are done with the shirt buttoned, before forming the slightest loop.
- Find your reference size. Start from the collar size of your evening shirt. Traditional fixed-length bow ties correspond to a given neck size, like shirt collars. According to Wikipedia, this range runs from about 14 to 19 inches (36 to 48 cm). Watch out: our sources specify neither how to place the tape measure nor how much ease to leave. The label of a shirt that fits well therefore remains the safest reference.
- Check the shirt collar. It should come halfway up the neck. The wing collar is reserved for grand occasions and goes with the bow tie or the lavallière, above all with a tuxedo. The mandarin or band collar, on the other hand, is not worn with a bow tie. Watch out: if the collar is already tight, no adjustment of the bow tie will bring you relief.
- Set the length to its maximum. Open the slider or move to the longest notch. A tie specialist, interviewed in 2018 by a French how-to website, considers this the simplest option. You readjust afterward, once the bow is formed. Watch out: identify your mechanism before tying, as it varies from model to model.
After tying: adjusting a bow tie to the collar
Once the bow is formed in front of the mirror, the length can be corrected without undoing everything.
- Shorten the band, with the bow in place. Slide the adjuster or move to the next notch, in small steps. Stop as soon as the band follows the collar without squeezing it. Watch out: handmade silk remains delicate, so handle the adjuster without forcing it or pulling on the seams. Then note the notch you chose, so you can preset it directly next time.
- Check on a turndown collar. On a classic point collar, the adjustable neck band is the norm, since the collar hides the band. Watch out: check in profile that no buckle or slider shows below the points.
- Check on a wing collar. This very formal collar leaves the band visible, so a fixed-length bow tie, with no visible buckle, is preferred. With an adjustable model, turn the fastening until it is hidden at the back of the neck.
- Check the comfort. Turn your head and lower your chin in front of the mirror: the bow tie should not bother you. Watch out: our sources set no tightness threshold, not even the rule of the finger under the band. So loosen it by one notch as soon as the band feels uncomfortable.
Adjustment and collar mistakes to avoid
Most unruly bow ties betray an adjustment done in the wrong order, or a poorly chosen collar.
- Starting too short: you can no longer tie it. Always start with the length at its maximum.
- Showing the slider on a wing collar: prefer a fixed length, or hide the fastening at the back of the neck.
- Choosing the wrong collar: no bow tie on a mandarin or band collar, and a cutaway collar suits a wide neck poorly.
That leaves the bow tie that turns or slips over the course of the evening. On this precise point, we found no independent source, neither on the causes nor on the remedies. Rather than offer tips we cannot verify, we prefer to say so. Check the length and the collar first, the only two documented adjustments.
When to call on a professional to adjust a bow tie
If the shirt collar pinches or gapes, change shirts or see a shirtmaker. The bow tie will never make up for an ill-fitting collar.
Dreaming of a fixed length for a wing collar? Ask a workshop whether the band can be shortened or made to measure. We have not checked the feasibility or the cost of this alteration, so ask before entrusting your bow tie to anyone.
The best time to adjust a bow tie remains a full fitting, with shirt, bow tie and jacket together, a few weeks before the event. That leaves time to change shirts or have an alteration made. On the evening itself, all that remains is to tie it, at the notch you have already found.
For your galas and year-end parties, discover our silk bow ties, handmade in Paris in three shapes.
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Frequently asked questions
How do you adjust a bow tie that is too tight?
Check the shirt collar first, because if it is already tight, the bow tie will not change anything. Otherwise, lengthen the band by one notch or slide the buckle, then turn your head to check.
Can you adjust a bow tie after tying it?
Yes, the length can be adjusted once the bow is tied, to fit it to your neck size. The simplest way is in fact to tie it with the length at its maximum, then shorten it in small steps.
What neck size for a bow tie?
Traditional fixed-length bow ties cover a neck size of about 14 to 19 inches (36 to 48 cm), like shirt collars. Use the label of an evening shirt that fits you well as your reference.
Do you need a fixed-length bow tie with a wing collar?
It is the most polished choice, because this collar shows the band, and therefore the buckle of an adjustable model. With an adjustable bow tie, simply hide the fastening at the back of the neck.
Sources & references
